Raleigh/Carlton Grand Prix: Vintage Huret Derailleur modified for alloy jockey-wheels

Old plastic jockey-wheels had only friction-bearings. They were seized and the teeth worn down from the chain rubbing over them. They were also making a massive racket.

New alloy jockey-wheels have sealed-bearings for smooth and quiet running. They come with plastic centre-shims of various diameter. These are the largest bore and still needed drilling out a bit with a 6.5mm bit to accept the vintage screw, which appears to be 1/4-inch rather than metric even though it is French made?

Lower cog fitted OK with the above bore mod and a washer to provide the correct width. The other cog, where the original plastic one had a much larger centre-bore to fit over the metal stud, needed more work.

The stud was cut off and filed flat with a bored-out M8 washer pressed in around it. The rigidity of the cog is provided by the metal bearing itself and is pretty solid.

Raleigh / Carlton Grand Prix 1979 Restoration Project

INDEX:

1. Alloy Wheels [27 x 1 1/4]

2. Continental Tyres

3. Head Stem Bearings

4. ACOR Jockey Wheels

5. San Marco Saddles

6. KMC X10 EL Chain

7. Maillard Comp. Freewheel

8. Maillard CXC Alloy Pedals

9. Jagwire Brake Cables / Outers

10. Fibrax Brake Blocks

11. DMR Seat Post

12. Jagwire Gear Cables

13. Campagnolo Gear Levers

14. Setting up the Huret Rear-Derailleur

15. Bottom Bracket / Crank Bearings

Ant's new bracket.

And his lovely Kwaka.

These bulkheads are getting worse...

£120 was paid for this one. It took 3 can of shat-in black.

How To: Re-build Blue Point Ratchett (Snap On)

Blue Point ratchet handles and socket-sets are really great, but eventually they do fail. This was well used when I got in 2010 and has been used hard every day since then. About a year ago it seized up and I bought a proper Snap On ratchet handle to replace it, the one that fits into the Blue Point socket-set case.

Your Snap On dealer will usually replace the internals there and then for you, at worst you will have to send it off, but if like me you find yourself doing it yourself then here's how.

You will need the Rebuild Kit - snap on part no. RKRBPRFR938.

Turns out a single tooth had stripped off the wheel and must have fallen down into the gears. This explains why the ratchet slipped every so often, usually with some pain to follow lol, and also why it eventually seized up.

First the pall (selector-switch) goes in. Followed by the spring, which fits down the hole in the handle and the ball-bearing sits on the top of it. The forward/reverse gear slots in now. Hold the ball-bearing down against the spring using a small screwdriver and slot the gear in to one side.  

Nathan is smug.

Fiat Fiorino f****d radio no more!