Gran Turismo Lost / Forgotten / Removed Car List

Gran Turismo:

• Honda NSX-R GT1 Turbo '95
• Honda CR-X del Sol LM Edition
• Mazda RX7 LM Edition
• Mitsubishi GTO LM
• Nissan R33 GTR LM
• Nissan S14 Silvia LM Edition
• Toyota Chaser LM Edition
• TVR Cerbera LM Edition

Gran Turismo 2:

• Suzuki Cultus Pikes Peak [wiki]
• Renault Espace F1
• Nissan Skyline Silhouette Formula (R30)
• HKS Skyline R33 Drag Car
• HKS Nissan 180SX Drag Car
• Ford Saleen SR Widebody
• Ford GT90
• Chrysler Phaeton [wiki]
• Lotus Elise GT1
• Lotus Esprit GT1
• Mazda RX-7 GT-Turbo (SA22C) '83
• TVR Speed 12
• Jaguar XJR15 GT Race Car
• Lister Storm V12 '94 [wiki]
• Venturi Atlantique 600 LM
• Vector M12
• Vector M12 LM Edition
• Wiegert Vector W-8 TwinTurbo
• Audi A3 '96 [wiki]
• Audi S3 '99 [wiki]
• Audi A4 2.8 quattro [wiki]
• Audi TT LM Edition [wiki]
• BMW 323Ti Compact [E36] [wiki]
• BMW 320ci [E46] [wiki]
• BMW 328ci [E46] [wiki]
• BMW 328i [E46] [wiki]
• BMW 528i [E39] [wiki]
• BMW 740i [E38] [wiki]
• BMW 840ci [E31] [wiki]
• Citroën Saxo 1.6i VTS [wiki]
• Citroën Xsara 1.8i 16V Exclusive [wiki]
• Daihatsu Opti Aerodown Beex (4WD,J) '98 [wiki]
• Daihatsu Opti Club Sport (2WD,J + 4WDJ) '97 [wiki,wiki]
• Daihatsu Sirion / Storia Rally Car [wiki]
• Daihatsu Terios Kid Aerodown (J) '98 [wiki]
• Dodge Avenger ES [wiki]
• Dodge Charger '71 [wiki]
• Dodge Intrepid ES [wiki]
• Dodge Neon ACR [wiki]
• Dodge Neon R / T [wiki]
• Dodge Stratus ES [wiki]
• Dodge STP Taisan Viper GT (JGTC) '99 [wiki]
• Fiat Barchetta [wiki]
• Fiat Coupe 2.0 20V Turbo [wiki]
• Fiat Punto GT [wiki]
• Ford Taurus SHO '98 [NASCAR Race Mod] [wiki]
• Ford Cougar 2.5i 24V '99 [wiki]
• Ford Mondeo Ghia X 2.5i 24V [BTCC Race Mod] [wiki]
• Ford Puma 1.7 Zetec-SE VCT [wiki]
• Ford Mustang GT '98 + '99 [wiki,wiki]
• Ford Mustang SVT Cobra '98 + '99 [wiki,wiki]
• Honda Accord Wagon SiR '96 + '98 [wiki,wiki]
• Honda Accord Wagon 2300 VTL 4WD '97 [wiki]
• Honda Z Turbo '98 [wiki]
• Honda Logo TS (J) '98 [wiki]
• Honda LIFE T '97 + '98 [wiki,wiki]
• Jaguar XJ Sport 3.2 [wiki]
• Jaguar XJR Vehicle [wiki]
• Jaguar XK8 Coupe [wiki]
• Lancia Y 1.2 16V [wiki]
• Lexus GS300 + GS400 [wiki,wiki]
• Lexus SC300 + SC400 [wiki,wiki]
• Lotus Elan S2 '64
• Lotus Elan S2 '90
• Lotus Elan S4 Sprint '71
• Mercedes-Benz AMG C 43
• Mercedes-Benz AMG E 55
• Mercedes-Benz CLK Race Car
• Mercury Cougar '99 [wiki]
• MGF 1.8i VVC '95
• Mitsubishi LEGNUM Super VR-4 '98
• Mitsubishi LEGNUM ST '97 + '99
• Mitsubishi LEGNUM VR-4 Type S '97 + '99
• Mitsubishi MINICA DANGAN ZZ '90
• Mitsubishi MINICA Pj '98
• Mitsubishi PAJERO MINI Sport '98
• Mitsubishi PAJERO MINI VR-II '97
• Mugen Accord SIR-T
• Mugen Accord Wagon
• Mugen Beat
• Mugen Civic Ferio
• Mugen Civic Type R
• Mugen CR-X Pro.2 + Pro.3
• Mugen Integra Type R
• Mugen Prelude Type-S
• NISMO 400R Preceiding Model
• Nissan SKYLINE GT-R 4door Tuned by Nismo
• Nissan Stagea 260RS Tuned by Nismo
• Nissan Almera VZ-R '97
• Nissan Micra Super Turbo '89
• Nissan Primera 2.0Te-V '98
• Nissan Primera Wagon '98
• Nissan Daisin Silvia GT (JGTC) '99
• Nissan Sunny VZ-R '98
• Opel Astra SRi 2.0i 16V
• Opel Corsa Sport 1.6i 16V
• Opel Tigra Ice Race Car
• Opel Vectra GSi 2.5 V6
• Peugeot 306 S16
• Peugeot 406 Sedan
• Plymouth Cuda '70
• Plymouth GTX
• Plymouth Road Runner '71
• Plymouth PT Spyder
• Renault Laguna V6
• Renault Megane 2.0 16V Coupe
• RUF BT2
• RUF BTR TypeI + Type II
• RUF CTR2 Sport
• RUF RCT
• RUF Turbo-R
• Shelby GT500KR '68
• Shelby Series One Super Charged '98
• Subaru 360 '69
• Subaru Forester S/tb '97
• Subaru Pleo RM + RS '98
• Subaru SVX '95
• Subaru Vivio RX-R '97
• Suzuki CERVO MODE SR FOUR '90
• Suzuki Kei S '98
• Suzuki WAGON R TURBO RT/S '95
• Tom's Angel T01
• Tom's Altezza 280T
• Tom's Supra
• Tom's T020 [MR-2]
• Tom's T111 [Integra]
• Tommy Kaira M13 Stage II [Micra]
• Tommy Kaira M30 (GTS) '87 [R31 Skyline]
• Tommy Kaira M30 (GTS-R) '91 [R32 Skyline]
• Tommy Kaira R '95 [R33 Skyline]
• Tommy Kaira R '99 [R34 Skyline]
• Tommy Kaira ZZ-III
• Toyota CALDINA GT-T '97
• Toyota XYR '99
• Toyota STARLET 3 Door Turbo S '82
• Toyota STARLET 3 Door Turbo S '87
• Toyota ALTEZZA LM Edition
• Toyota BP Apex Kraft Trueno GT (JGTC) '99
• Toyota Castrol Tom's Supra GT (JGTC) '99
• Toyota cdma One CERUMO Supra GT (JGTC) '99
• Toyota Denso Sard Supra GT (JGTC) '99
• Toyota Momo Corse Apex MR2 GT (JGTC) '99
• Toyota Weds Sport Celica GT (JGTC) '99
• TRD 2000GT [MR-2]
• TRD Chaser Sports X30
• TVR Cerbera 4.5
• TVR Chimaera 4.0, 4.5 + 5.0
• Vauxhall Astra SRi 2.0i 16V
• Vauxhall Corsa Sport 1.6i 16V
• Vauxhall Tigra Ice Race Car
• Vauxhall Vectra GSi 2.5 V6
• Venturi Atlantique 300
• Venturi Atlantique 400 GT [wiki]
• Volkswagen Polo 1.4 16V

Gran Turismo 3:

• Polyphony 001
• Polyphony 002

Gran Turismo Concept / Gran Turismo 4 Prologue:

• Pod - [I feel the Pod is worth mentioning, appearing only in GT Concept and GT4 Prologue. It was a one-make mini-race series with small rounded-square cars. Not sure what powered them, but they made sort of jingly-bell noises when the cars collided, with LED panels changing colour from blue to red. It obviously never became much of a thing in real life and was dropped by PD.]

List of Lost / Forgotten Tracks here.

Gran Turismo Lost / Forgotten Tracks List

Gran Turismo 2:

Green Forest Roadway [GT2 only]

Grindelwald [GT2 only]

Motorsports Land [GT2 only]

Pikes Peak Hillclimb / Downhill [GT2 only]

Red Rock Valley [GT2 only]

Rome Short [GT2 only]

Rome Night [GT2 only]

Seattle Short [GT2 only]

Smokey Mountain South [GT2 only]

Tahiti Road Course [GT2 only]

Test Course [GT1, GT2]

Gran Turismo 3:

Driving Park - Circle Course 60R [GT2, GT3]

Driving Park - Circle Course 100R [GT3 only]

Super Speedway [GT2, GT3]

Special Stage Route 11 [GT1, GT3]

Gran Turismo Concept:

Pod Race Track [GTC only]

Gran Turismo 4 Prologue:

Driving Park - Beginner Course (no chicane) [GT4P only]

Grand Canyon Short Track [GT4P only]

Gran Turismo 4:

Fuji Speedway '80s [GT4 only]

George V Paris [GT4 only]

Gymkhana [GT4P, GT4]

Infineon Raceway (Stock Car Course) [GT4 only]

Las Vegas Drag Strip [GT4 only]

Gran Turismo PSP:

Classic Tracks:

Driving Park - Complex String [GT3, GT PSP]

Driving Park - Test Course [GT3, GT4, GT PSP]

Seattle Circuit [GT2, GT3, GT4, GT PSP]

Smokey Mountain North [GT2, GT3, GT PSP]

Swiss Alps [GT3, GTC, GT4, GT PSP]

Tahiti Circuit [GT2, GT3, GT PSP]

Tahiti Maze [GT2, GT3, GTC, GT4, GT PSP]

Newer Tracks:

Cathedral Rocks Trail I [GT4, GT PSP]

Cathedral Rocks Trail II [GT4, GT PSP]

Cathedral Rocks Trail III [GT4, GT PSP]

Circuit de Valencia Ricardo Torma [GT PSP only]

Città di Aria [GT4P, GT4, GT PSP]

Costa di Amalfi [GT4, GT PSP]

Driving Park - Beginner Course [GT4, GT PSP]

El Capitan [GT4, GT PSP]

Fuji Speedway '90s [GT4P, GT4, GT PSP]

Grand Canyon [GT4P, GT4, GT PSP]

Hong Kong [GT4, GT PSP]

Ice Arena [GT4, GT PSP]

Infineon Raceway (Sports Car Course) [GT4, GT PSP]

Motorland [GT4, GT PSP]

New York [GT4, GT PSP]

Opera Paris [GT4, GT PSP]

Seoul Central [GT4, GT PSP]

Suzuka Circuit West Course [GT4, GT PSP]

Gran Turismo 5:

Rome Circuit [GT2, GT3, GT5]

Top Gear Test Track [GT5 only]

Gran Turismo 6: 

Classic Tracks:

Apricot Hill Raceway [GT2, GT3, GT4, GT PSP, GT6]

Autumn Ring [GT, GT2, GTC, GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Autumn Ring Mini [GT, GT2, GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Clubman Stage Route 5 [GT, GT2, GT4, GT5, GT6]

Cote d'Azur [GT3, GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Deep Forest Raceway [GT, GT2, GT3, GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Grand Valley Speedway [GT, GT2, GT3, GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Grand Valley East [GT, GT2, GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

High-Speed Ring [GT, GT2, GT4, GT5P, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca [GT2, GT3, GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Mid-field Raceway [GT2, GT3, GTC, GT4, GT PSP, GT6]

Special Stage Route 5 [GT, GT2, GT3, GT4, GT5, GT6]

Tokyo Route 246 (R246) [GT3, GTC, GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Trial Mountain Circuit [GT, GT2, GT3, GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Twin Ring Motegi East Short Course [GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Twin Ring Motegi RoadCourse [GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Twin Ring Motegi Super Speedway [GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Twin Ring Motegi West Short Course [GT4, GT5, GT PSP, GT6]

Modern Tracks:

Ascari Race Resort [GT6 only]

Autodromo Nazionale Monza '80s [GT6 only]

Brands Hatch Indy 1980's [GT6 only]

Brands Hatch GP 1980's [GT6 only]

Cape Ring [GT5, GT6]

Cape Ring Inside [GT5, GT6]

Cape Ring North [GT5, GT6]

Cape Ring Periphery [GT5, GT6]

Cape Ring South [GT5, GT6]

Chamonix East [GT5, GT6]

Chamonix Main [GT5, GT6]

Chamonix Mini [GT5, GT6]

Chamonix West [GT5, GT6]

Circuito de la Sierra [GT6 only]

Circuito de Madrid [GT5, GT6]

Circuito de Madrid Mini [GT5, GT6]

Circuito di Roma [GT5, GT6]

Daytona Superspeedway [GT5, GT5, GT6]

Daytona Road Course [GT5, GT5, GT6]

Eiger Nordward G Trail [GT5, GT6]

Eiger Nordward K Trail [GT5, GT6]

Eiger Nordward W Trail [GT5, GT6]

Eiger Nordwand Short Track [GTHD, GT5P, GT5, GT6]

Goodwood Hillclimb 2014 [GT6 only]

Goodwood Hillclimb 2015 [GT6 only]

GT Arena [GT6 only]

GT Arena (Open Layout) [GT6 only]

Hadley Rille [GT6 only]

Hadley Rille Oval [GT6 only]

Indianapolis Superspeedway [GT5, GT6]

Indianapolis Road Course [GT5, GT6]

Kart Space I [GT5, GT6]

Kart Space II [GT5, GT6]

London City Circuit [GT5P, GT5, GT6]

Matterhorn Short [GT6 only]

Matterhorn Rotenboden [GT6 only]

Matterhorn Riffelsee [GT6 only]

Matterhorn Dristelen [GT6 only]

Nurburgring GP/D [GT5, GT6]

Nurburgring Type V [GT5, GT6]

Rally Toscana [GT5, GT6]

Silverstone GP Circuit [GT6 only]

Silverstone International Circuit [GT6 only]

Silverstone National Circuit [GT6 only]

Silverstone Stowe Circuit [GT6 only]

Spa-Francorchamps [GT5, GT6]

Special Stage Route 7 [GT5, GT6]

St. George's Crater [GT6 only]


List of Forgotten / Removed Cars here!

Removing Creak from Crank Arms / Bottom Bracket:

Loud creak when pedalling? Is it particularly on one side? And on the downward power-stroke? Chances are it will be this.

On older bikes, the square-taper where the pedal-arm attaches to the crank is prone to loud creaking, particularly where an alloy arm fits to a steel axle, which reverberates up the whole bike and can be difficult to diagnose. This is particularly noticeable after the pedal-arms have been removed for servicing. They are notoriously difficult to set back down perfectly again and this is what causes the arms to creak through the whole frame. If they are out of flush by even just a tiny bit, they can creak. So...

• If you are removing your pedal-arms for servicing or fitting new ones then remember to grease the square-taper on the crank before banging the arms on, this will help reduce creaking even if they are a tiny bit out.
• The creaking pedal-arms could simply need knocking on a bit more to get them flush and kill the creak, so loosen the locking-nut and give the arms a few good whacks and see if they will seat better.
• If the above tip doesn't work then the pedal-arm will have to come off and be re-fitted. Remove the arms, grease the square-taper and re-fit the arms making sure they go on securely and even.

https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/124/creaking-from-cranks-spindle-how-to-fix

RDR2 - Horseman #9 - Fastest Route Map Hi-Res

Horseman #9 - Ride from Van Horn to Blackwater without touching any water.

Go to the stables near Van Horn and get a Horse Care Package before setting off.

Set off from the Stagecoach sign in Van Horn in the morning time so you have plenty of light to see other traffic on the roads and avoid it.

Feed and brush the horse before setting off.

Stock up on Potent Horse Stimulant / Horse Stimulant.

Renault Clio Mk3: Stuck Wiper Linkage Fix

1. Take off both wiper-arms by removing the plastic-cap, undoing the 16mm nut and working them free from the spindles.

2. Remove the plastic scuttle-panel in front of the windscreen. First remove the plastic stud-clip at either side of the panel and pull off the rubber-seal on the leading edge. The panel can now be lifted at the leading edge and pulled towards the front of the car to remove without damaging the plastic clips at the windscreen edge.

3. Separate the long wiper-linkage connecting rod from the motor-arm by popping it upwards off the ball-joint using a large flat-screwdriver or small pry-bar.

4. Remove the 3 screws holding the entire wiper-linkage assembly to the car using a 10mm socket with some reach. Two are located vertically, one just below the driver's wiper-spindle and one in the middle. The third is facing horizontally in towards the cabin and found just below the middle of the screen.

5. Carefully lift the entire linkage mechanism out from the bulkhead area and remove the two connecting-rods by popping the ball-joints off the bottom of the wiper-spindles.

6. Remove the metal ring-clip from the upper part of each wiper-spindle by tapping either side of the opening in the clip with a small flat-screwdriver / punch and working the clip out.

7. Remove the two flat washers from the upper part of each wiper-spindle.

8. Slide the seized spindles out of their bushings. This is the hard part! Use plenty of WD40. Try working the spindles out by rotating them as you pull, but chances are they will be seized solid and require knocking out with a hammer, so make sure you screw the nut back on, leaving it just proud of the threaded part of the spindle to avoid damaging the thread.

9. Remove the two flat washers from the bottom of each wiper-spindle.

10. Clean the corrosion from each wiper-spindle using light emery-cloth / sandpaper. Using a vice to clamp the spindles makes life easy here.

11. Clean the corrosion from the inside of each spindle bushing on the linkage by wrapping some emery-cloth round a 10mm drill-bit and hand turning it inside the tubes. A small round wire-brush on a drill should work too.

12. Refit the two flat washers to the bottom of each wiper-spindle.

13. Lightly grease the shafts of each spindle and slide them back into the bushing tubes. Be careful not to get any on the threaded part. I used Moly grease but any thick grease will do - CV grease, copper-slip etc.

14. Refit the two flat washers and ring-clip to the top of each wiper-spindle. You should be able to start the clip off by hand and knock it fully in with a small flat-screwdriver.

15. Reverse steps 1-5 to refit the linkage. With the wipers in the 'parked' position, the small arm that connects the linkage to the motor should be pointing towards the passenger-side of the car, otherwise the wipers will still have some downward movement. **It might also be worth lubricating the metal-in-plastic ball-joints when refitting using PTFE white-grease.**


https://www.renaultforums.co.uk/17-electronics/75956-clio-3-front-wipers-problem-6.html?amp=1&utm_source=amp

Raleigh/Carlton Grand Prix: Bottom Bracket / Crank Restoration + new bearings + removing stuck crank

OK, lets do the bottom bracket / crank now. I've been meaning to do this all year, but found both my pedal arms are seized good style, having been on for 40 years, so I removed both 15mm lock-nuts and after two weeks of hard riding the left-side pedal arm finally popped off. I forgot to bring the lock nuts with me, so had to complete my ride home, some 2.5 miles, using only my right pedal, which amused pedestrians and other cyclists alike!

As you can see below, the BB could be worse after four decades, but is still pretty gunked up and nasty.

The locking-ring and lock-side bottom bracket came off pretty easily, but the drive-side pedal-arm would still not budge even after much soaking in WD40 and various manipulation, so I had to just do the job with the arm and chain-wheel in place. I did this by wedging a 16mm spanner in between the chain-wheel and bottom-bracket and just about got it moving enough to remove. Shame, as this side of the BB is painted along with the frame, but ah well after a bit of hammering the paint broke and it unscrewed.

Both sides of the BB and the skewer cleaned up real nice with plenty of WD40 and elbow-grease (above). Sadly, I could not get it into work this weekend to polish any components or beat the grease off the skewer with a brush-wheel. Next, I applied plenty of new grease to the drive-side BB and fitted all new 1/4-inch ball bearings (below), even though the originals were OK and could be re-used. The Grand Prix and other Raleigh cranks of this era take 11 of the 1/4" ball-bearings in each race.

I then caked the bearings in lots of fresh grease and also put a liberal coating of grease up the length of the skewer to prevent corrosion and just make sure there was plenty more grease in the bottom-bracket, as per John Gurnee's restoration of Craig's Raleigh Grand Prix in this blog - http://johns-recycled-bicycle.blogspot.com/2012/06/craigs-raleigh-grand-prix-restoration.html

Next was the lock-side BB, caked with fresh grease and 11 new ball-bearings. 

I then cleaned up the inside of the bottom-bracket on the frame, which is in pretty good shape (I really should re-spray the frame while doing these jobs to preserve it, but don't want to lose the Carlton factory colours and stickers yet) and sprayed a good bit of WD40 up the frame-tubes the night before doing this, which can do no harm.

And, while the chain-wheels were off the bike I though it would be a good time to strip them down and clean up the areas I previously could not reach along with the screws. They are a mixture of Japanese Sakae and Shimano all-alloy lightweight parts, which I love and are in really great condition for their age, so I am pleased they have all come up so nicely.

Last was re-fitting the bottom-bracket / crank assembly. This was quite difficult balancing the bike while the drive-side pedal and arm were still attached without losing any bearings from the open races or getting grease everywhere, but was more than doable. The whole assembly looks much, much neater now and does not creak and 'boing' as I lean the bike under acceleration, but again it's a shame I couldn't get the BB parts into work and polish them properly. Still, a good job that's been overdue for ages!